Where to Eat, Stay & Play in Sardinia, Corsica & Sicily
An Insider’s Guide
Sardinia, Corsica, and Sicily are beautiful, laid-back Mediterranean neighbors: Sardinia is a little larger than Vermont, Corsica, about twice the size of Rhode Island, and Sicily is Italy's largest island. All three destinations are an excellent way to round out a trip to France and Italy. You probably will not visit the three islands in one trip, though of course, you could.
All three islands are known for fresh, satisfyingly simple cuisine, outstanding wines, idyllic beaches, charming towns, and beautiful natural landscapes. The vibe is relaxed. The tradition is strong. An itinerary is not needed here.
Below is a sampling of where to stay, what to do, and where to eat in Sardinia, Corsica, and Sicily, plus a few essential travel tips and logistics. But the moral of the story is that on all three islands, spontaneity reigns.
Nevertheless, connect with me to plan and book a trip tailored to your unique vibe and interests. Plus, I’ll handle all the logistics so you can truly relax. And if you’re traveling to these Mediterranean gems, that’s the whole point.
Need to know
Main airports: Cagliari Elmas Airport (CAG, southern Sardinia), Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport (OLB, northern Sardinia) & Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte Airport (AJA, Corsica), Aeroporto di Catania (CTA, east coast Sicily) and Aeroporto di Palermo (PMO, Sicily). Starting in June 2024, direct flights from NYC to Palermo, Sicily, will be available!
Transportation: Sardinia, Corsica, and Sicily are relatively easy to get to from major European cities. To get to Sardinia, some people hop on a ferry in Rome. To get to Corsica, a ferry from Nice is a popular option. These ferries are a commitment — they take between six to eight hours — but they offer an approachable price point and a nice change of pace. The ferry from mainland Italy to Sicily takes about 20 minutes (or about nine from Naples). You can also take the train to Sicily! On the islands, it’s best to rent a car if you would like to explore. Doing so allows for greater flexibility and freedom, and is more reliable than some of the public options available.
Best time to visit: Springtime (April to June) brings beautiful blooms and pleasant weather. My Mediterranean island travel has always been smack in the summertime, and I love the vibe of hot weather, slow pace, and lazy afternoons. It is more crowded but the water is prime for swimming. Early fall sees mild weather and fewer crowds, while winter is also less crowded, but a bit too chilly if you’re looking to swim, and some places close for winter.
Ideal length of stay: Three nights is great for a short-term stay. Five to seven days is ideal for a more slow-paced trip, especially for families. Honestly, In an ideal world, I’d stay for two, or three, weeks and soak it up slowly.
Sardinia
Sardinia is an Italian gem in the Mediterranean. It’s the sea’s second-largest island, after Sicily, and is a favored vacation spot for Europeans. The island is not as built for tourism (though things are changing); as a result, it has a breezy local vibe. Sardinia is ideal for a go-at-your-own-pace vacation: lounge by the beach, wander around the charming villages (San Pantaleo and Porto Cervo are particularly lovely), swim in the pristine water, hike its ancient mountains, savor exceptionally fresh seafood and pasta, and indulge in the island’s laid-back atmosphere. Come here to relax and unwind.
Where to stay in Sardinia
Domu Antigua: Time seems to stand still in this lovingly restored, family-owned farmhouse in the quiet village of Gergei, an hour’s drive north of Cagliari
Is Cheos: a farm boutique hotel and winery, offers rooms and lodges with private pools.
Cascione Eco Retreat: Sustainable luxury in Sardinia’s north-eastern corner set within a 90-acre nature reserve
Romazzino, Costa Smeralda (reopening May 2024): This magical, tasteful resort is a blend of chic elegance and immersive, personalized experiences.
Villa del Re: A luxury resort on Sardinia’s peaceful Southern Coast, directly on a beautiful private beach (adult only)
And there is so much more!
What to do in Sardinia
Sardinia is blissfully laid-back: Beach days, long strolls, swimming, and relaxing are all highly encouraged. Still, if adventure is calling, Sardinia delivers. There are hundreds of trails on the island, perfect for activities like hiking and mountain biking. If you’re into history, visit the ancient stone compounds of Su Nuraxi di Barumini. Indulge in Italian cuisine and wander the charming streets of Alghero or Cagliari. Venture to the La Maddalena Archipelago for pristine beaches and crystal-clear waters.
Where to eat in Sardinia
Sardinia is home to one of the world’s few Blue Zones, places where people inhabit healthy lifestyles and live much longer than average. In other words, Sardinian cuisine is ultra-nourishing — and ultra-delicious. Along with plenty of trekking along the island’s hilly terrain, this diet (and a daily glass or two of wine, of course) may just be the key to longevity.
For elevated Italian fare in a sleek, contemporary space, head to Josto. Sinnos is a beautiful cheese shop that produces its cheese from pasture-raised sheep. Don’t miss one of their tastings, complete with wine and homemade deliciousness. Abbamele Osteria is cozy and casual, while the sustainably-minded Fradis Minoris is a bit more swanky. At Osteria De' Mercati, seasonal Italian seafood gets a refined touch. At Belmond’s elegant Ristorante Romazzino, locally sourced ingredients are masterfully prepared and enjoyed with views of the bay.
Some Sardinian classics to try: fregula (semolina pasta similar to couscous), porcetto arrosto (roasted pig), seadas (fired lemon-and-honey semolina pastries), pane carasau (paper-thin flatbread).
Corsica
Corsica is essentially Sardinia’s French sister. It, too, boasts charming hilltop towns, amazing wine, delicious food and idyllic beaches. Corsica is a bit more rugged than Sardinia, and that’s part of its allure: explore its craggy mountain ranges and chestnut groves. Some refer to it as the “scented isle,” because of its fragrant maquis plants. It’s about a six-hour ferry from Nice and makes a perfect, off-the-beaten-path addition to a France vacation. (It’s also a quick ferry ride from Sardinia, but I recommend picking one or the other, as they’re quite similar. The islands are less than seven miles apart.)
Where to stay in Corsica
La Signoria & Spa: Luxurious and laid-back seclusion in an 18th-century manor amid a lush natural landscape, charming pool surrounded by views of orange, palm and pine trees. Nearby private beach club at Calvi beach.
La Villa Calvi: A hilltop retreat with beautiful views, a dreamy spa and its own beach club.
A Casa Reale: A Chambre d’hǒte in port town Bastia, wisteria-bedecked sea-view terrace; elegant antique-filled living room with a beautiful Prussian grand piano dating back to 1904 and a library with rare and antique books.
Domaine de Murtoli: A locally owned escape comprised of restored 17th-century mansions and shepherd houses, includes a, olive-shaded pool and access to a couple of the island’s best restaurants.
Many more gems to stay at!
What to do in Corsica
Like Sardinia, Corsica’s coastline is stunning and serene. Explore its many beaches and swim in the crystal-clear water. Take a boat to the Scandola Natural Reserve, where you can witness the island’s dramatic cliffs, enchanting caves, and its diverse bird populations. If you’re into diving, the reserve is also a great scuba site.
Wander around the charming villages, pop into a few wineries, and stop by the centuries-old Genoese towers and citadels that dot the island. Travelers interested in history will enjoy Maison Bonaparte, Napoleon’s former home. Adventurers will delight in the island’s rugged natural terrain. For an especially challenging (and rewarding) trek, consider tackling the 112-mile GR20, which generally takes about two weeks to complete. Or take a boat trip to the Lavezzi Islands, known for clear waters and stunning landscapes.
Where to eat in Corsica
L’Aghjalle is as farm-to-table as it gets. All of the products on their Corsican menu come directly from their onsite farm. La Table by La Villa, at La Villa Calvi, serves a sophisticated menu inspired by Southern France, complete with sweeping views of the bay and the mountains. For fresh seafood and local produce right on the port de Saint Florent, head to La Gaffe, and at Domaine de Murtoli’s Table de la Ferme, expect additional farm-to-table cuisine in a cozy, rustic, elegant setting.
Some classics from Corsica: civet de sanglier (wild boar stew), falculelle (sweet cheese cake), brocciu (creamy sheep’s-milk cheese similar to ricotta), fritelli castagnini (chestnut-flour fritters)
Image courtesy of Fora
Sicily
Sicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, is a wonderful blend of the Mediterranean world. The strategic location of Sicily has made it a melting pot of civilizations, evident in its diverse cuisine, architecture, and traditions. So rather than beelining for Taormina’s touristy White Lotus filming spots, why not venture into this island’s rugged, ever-contradictory soul? Take in the beauty of its beaches, the mystical presence of Etna, ever looming, and excessive amounts of ricotta-filled cannoli. Sicily can be a destination in itself or combine it with the Amalfi Coast or Puglia.
Where to stay:
Asmundo Di Gisira: a palazzo in the heart of old-town Catania. Gallery-style suites, creative, filled Sicilian-inspired art. I stayed here the last time I was in Italy. Divine.
Sikelia: Luxury bliss on the tiny Italian island of Pantelleria
Verdura resort: Luxury family-friendly resort on the stunning southwest coast, private beach, many amenities
Susafa: in the center of the island rural family-run farm estate, with orchards, gardens, a pool, and a restaurant. Remote, the perfect stop on a road trip. Epic sunsets, cooking classes
Lume: in the heart of Siracuse, the South of Sicily, with an ocean-facing rooftop terrace and warm Sicilian interiors
so many more heavenly places to spend the night.
What to do in Sicily
Explore the overload of enchanting towns in Sicily. It’s truly a treat. Start with the Baroque towns of Ragusa and Modica, with their ornate architecture and winding streets. Consider taking a cable car from Taormina to the coastal village of Mazzarò for stunning views. Discover magical Syracusa and Noto, the cuisine alone is worth a trip, and vibrant Palermo, Sicily’s capital. Marvel at the well-preserved Valley of the Temples in Agrigento and the ancient theater in Taormina.
You can’t leave Sicily without a visit to the lunar landscapes of Mount Etna, Europe's tallest active volcano. Here you can visit a local winery and enjoy the unique wines of this volcanic region. Take a boat excursion to the serene Aeolian Islands, a stunning archipelago north of Sicily, or snorkel in the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro.
Relax on Sicily's diverse beaches, from the ivory sands of San Vito lo Capo to the pebbled shores of Cefalù, a quiet beach town with colorful umbrellas against cappuccino-colored walls. And don’t miss the breathtaking Scala dei Turchi, a majestic limestone cliff overlooking the sea.
Where to eat
Sicily offers culinary experiences overload. To get your senses going: Dine at Belmond’s Grand Hotel Timeo (Taormina), with a gorgeous view of Naxos Bay and Mount Etna. Try their pasta alla Norma. Then to Cappadonia: for excellent gelato. Also in Taormina: granita at BamBar.
In Palermo, visit Ristorante La Galleria, located in a quaint alley near the Cathedral. Try the arancini at Franco U' Vastiddaru. Then in Siracusa, casual Caseificio Borderi, offers only outdoor seating and is a few steps from the ancient temple of Apollo, and the island of Ortigia. For a modern upscale spin on tradition dine at Ristorante Crocifisso in creative colorful Noto.
Food-related activities: Don't miss the lively Ballarò Market in Palermo, where you can sample fresh produce, local cheeses, and street food snacks while mingling with the locals. And no trip to Italy is complete without a cooking class. For example at Oseria Santa Domenica.
Classic Sicilian dishes to try: Arancini, Pasta al Norma (sautéed eggplant, tomato sauce, fresh basil, and ricotta salata), Cannoli (deep-fried pastry tubes piped full of fresh, creamy ricotta). And the famous Pasta con le sarde, cooked with fresh fennel, and oil-packed sardines. Sicily is also famous for its desserts: Bucciddatu, cannolis, and granita. Savor local wines such as Nero d'Avola and Marsala.
