Where to Eat, Stay & Play in Paris

Paris is a mosaic of 20 unique arrondissements, each with its own charm and personality.  Depending on your travel style and preferences, you’ll likely spend most of your time in a select few of them.

Central Paris: Iconic Landmarks and Bohemian Vibes

Begin your journey in the heart of the city with the central islands of Île de la Cité and Île Saint Louis, home to notable landmarks like Notre Dame Cathedral and the Louvre Museum, both in the 1st arrondissement. Nearby, the 9th arrondissement has a hip, boho-chic vibe. The trendy 11th has experienced a similar renaissance of sorts — especially when it comes to gastronomy (expect unassuming, coolly decorated eateries serving Michelin-worthy food; no white tablecloths here). 

Embrace the Local Flavor: Wandering Beyond Tourist Haunts

Tourist hits like the Eiffel Tower are worth visiting, especially if it's your first time. However, Paris truly reveals its magic when you venture off the beaten path Embrace the art of flânerie, because if any city was ideal for wandering and delightful spontaneity, it’s Paris. Linger a little longer. Savor your food a little more. Pause. Talk to locals (the French are actually quite friendly). There are so many things to do and see, but you’ll get a lot more out of the city if you commit to slowing down — if only a little.

Below is a mere sampling of all this worldly city has to offer. Connect with me for a tailored itinerary. I’ll help you whittle down your options so you get the most out of your trip — seeing everything you want to see, while also allowing time for the occasional delightful surprise.

Need to know:

Airport: Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), Paris-Orly Airport (ORY)

Transportation: The Paris Métro and Réseau Express Régional (RER) are the city’s equivalent of the subway. Both are relatively easy and convenient to get around the city proper. 

Best time to visit: Spring and fall tend to be the sweet spots: crowds are milder, as is the weather. June and July are sunny, hot and crowded. Parisians vacation in August, and many restaurants and boutiques close for the month. But if you don’t mind a quieter stay, August can be a surprisingly lovely time to visit.

Ideal length of stay: Paris never gets old, and you’ll never run out of things to see and do. You can cover a lot of ground in four to six days. For a bit of a slower pace (highly recommended), consider something closer to the six or seven days. 

Signature dishes: Paris excels at bread; you must sample at least one fresh baguette and croissant. The city’s culinary scene is always evolving, with elevated, modern takes on bistro classics (a type of hip dining called bistronomie) becoming increasingly popular. Paris is also a city of immigrants: you’ll find tons of stellar Japanese, Israeli and Chinese food, for instance. But the classics aren’t going anywhere. Sample warming soupe à l’oignon (French onion soup, but they omit the “French” part), warming coq au vin (chicken stewed in wine), crispy pommes frites, paper-thin crêpes (try Brittany region’s iteration, made with buckwheat) and tarte tatin (caramelized apple tart with a flaky puff pastry crust).

Left Bank (Rive Gauche)

Cross the Seine to the Left Bank, where history meets intellectualism. Explore the scholarly Latin Quarter, home to La Sorbonne and historic cafés frequented by famous thinkers. For a tranquil retreat, visit Parc Montsouris in the 14th arrondissement or delve into the intriguing Paris Catacombs nearby. Indulge in culinary delights at Racines des Prés or soak in the ambiance of Café de Flore, a favorite haunt of Parisian intellectuals.

Where to stay in Paris’ Left Bank

Relais Christine: A charming boutique hotel tucked away in a leafy courtyard. VIP partner perks include €90 spa credit, a welcome amenity, an upgrade and late check-out upon availability.

J.K. Place Paris: This five-star boutique hotel is a study in taste — the epitome of chic. VIP partner perks include $100 hotel credit, a welcome amenity, breakfast daily, an upgrade and extended check-in/out upon availability.

Hôtel Dame des Arts: Hip and contemporary, with a youthful, sleek aesthetic. VIP Preferred Platinum perks include $100 hotel credit, a welcome amenity, breakfast daily, an upgrade and extended check-in/out upon availability.

Hôtel Bel Ami: An intimate boutique gem from B Signature’s portfolio. Special Diamond Club perks include $100 food and beverage credit, a welcome amenity and breakfast daily.

Hotel Recamier: A small, intimate hotel located on the scenic Place St. Sulpice. Perks include: Upgrade to next room category, based upon availability at check-in, welcome amenity and complimentary daily express breakfast (max 2 guests)

image courtesy of Relais Christine


What to do in Paris’ Left Bank

Luxury shopping abounds in the posh Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood in the 6th arrondissement. After perusing the designer shops, people watch in the Jardin de Luxembourg, with its idyllic manicured greenery, fountains and picnicking locals. You’ll find some of the city’s top landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower, next door in the 7th: the Musée d’Orsay, a perfectly sized museum housed in a former train station, and the Musée Rodin (don’t miss its sculpture garden). 

Wander the streets of the youthful Latin Quarter, home to La Sorbonne. For a more residential feel, head south to Parc Montsouris, a leafy oasis in the 14th arrondissement near the Université Paris Cité. Also in the 14th are the Paris Catacombs, a unique, if spooky, experience. The city’s primary Chinatown and charming, street-art-filled Butte aux Cailles await in the 13th. 


Where to eat in Paris’ Left Bank

Locals flock to the chic, casual Racines des Prés, known for its curated seasonal menu of elevated bistro fare. Le Christine is another neighborhood gem in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The historic Café de Flore and its neighbor, Les Deux Magots have hosted many a French luminary; they were the go-to places for artists and intellectuals to lose themselves in dynamic, probing conversations. A bit touristy perhaps, but nonetheless iconic. 

Head to the sexy, see-and-be-seen Coya for refined Peruvian and Latin American fusion in a hip and happening space. Le Voltaire is perfect for traditional French cuisine — escargot, endive salad, côte de bœuf — in warm and cozy environs. Savor classic, locavore country cuisine with a gourmet flair at homey L’Assiette. For Italian, La Felicità is a fun, hyper-casual opinion with hip cafeteria vibes. And Poilâne is a must for artisanal sourdough bread; there are several locations throughout the city. 

Right Bank (Rive Droite)

North of the Seine, you'll find trendy neighborhoods, several green spaces, and many of Paris' most famous landmarks, gardens, and museums

Where to stay in Paris’ Right Bank

La Fantaisie: A tastefully eclectic gem of a hotel with vibrant decor, a restaurant helmed by Dominique Crenn and a rooftop bar. VIP Reserve perks include €100 food / beverage or spa credit, a welcome bottle of Champagne, an upgrade and extended check-in/out for stays two nights or more.

Château Voltaire: A discreetly luxurious stay with handsomely pared back decor near the Jardins des Tuileries. VIP Reserve perks include welcome amenities, a complimentary aperitivo, breakfast daily and an upgrade.

Hôtel L'Eldorado Paris: Retro and exclusive, with bold patterns and tons of vintage charm. Reserve perks include a welcome drink, breakfast daily and an upgrade.

Kimpton St Honoré Paris: Playful and effortlessly chic, with a rooftop bar offering panoramic city views. Fora’s  IHG Luxury partner perks include $100 hotel credit, welcome amenities, breakfast daily, an upgrade and late check-out.

Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel: Timeless, tranquil and elegant, in true Rosewood fashion. Fora's Rosewood Elite perks include €95 food / beverage or spa credit, a welcome amenity, breakfast daily, an upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.

Hôtel Pulitzer Paris: An inviting 44-room gem with a warm, hip aesthetic. Partner perks include welcome amenities, breakfast daily and an upgrade.

Hôtel Adèle & Jules: A stylish, effortlessly cool 60-room gem with a bright personality. Fora’s partner perks include welcome treats, breakfast daily and an upgrade. 

Ritz Paris: A legendary icon of luxury. Fora’s VIP partner perks include complimentary roundtrip private airport transfer, breakfast daily, an upgrade and extended check-in/out.

Hotel Fabric: a former textile factory in Paris’s hip Oberkampf district (11th) whose high ceilings and brick walls are a surprisingly fresh departure from the norm. Perks: Upgrade to next room category, based upon availability at check-in, Guaranteed 2pm late check-out, Complimentary welcome drink per guest, per stay

Le Pavillon de la Reine & Spa: An enchanting, discreet and luxurious hideaway in the Marais. Fora Perks include $100 hotel / resort credit, a welcome amenity, breakfast daily, an upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.

Cour des Vosges: An art-filled 12-room mansion on one of Paris' oldest squares. Fora Perks include $100 food / beverage or spa credit, breakfast daily, an upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.

Saint James Paris: A three-Michelin-Key stunner (with a three-Michelin-Star restaurant, no less) housed in a regal château estate. Fora’s partner perks include breakfast daily.

Hôtel Plaza Athénée: A Parisian icon on the fashionable Boulevard Montaigne. Fora's Dorchester Diamond Club partner perks include €100 hotel / resort credit, breakfast daily and an upgrade whenever possible.

Image courtesy of Hôtel de Crillon

What to do in Paris’ Right Bank

The Right Bank is notably larger than its left counterpart and offers numerous green spaces, such as those in the 19th arrondissement, perfect for a nature retreat. The 16th’s Bois de Boulogne is a sprawling verdant playground complete with botanical gardens, waterfalls, lakes, horse-racing tracks and paths primed for wandering. (Stade Roland Garros sits on Bois de Boulogne’s edge.) It’s also home to the Fondation Louis Vuitton, which shows various excellent exhibitions in a modern building that resembles a mini Sydney Opera House made from glass and metal. The green Cimetière du Père-Lachaise, in the 20th, hosts the tombs of numerous luminaries, including Marcel Proust, Jim Morrison and Edith Piaf.

You’ll find the famed Champs Elysées and Arc de Triomphe in the regal 8th arrondissement, with its wide boulevards. The central 1st arrondissement is home to hits like the Louvre and its Jardins des Tuileries. (The Louvre is overwhelmingly large; you can’t see everything in one day. Prioritize a select few exhibitions that align with your interests.) Additional tourist hits — Notre Dame, Centre Pompidou — are found in the 4th.

In between shopping in the ever-popular Marais and its selection of boutiques and designer shops, consider leaving time for a hammam session at Les Bains du Marais. The hip, more local Haut Marais boasts a variety of charming shops and cafés as well, plus the Musée National Picasso

The 9th arrondissement has had a bit of a resurgence in recent years. It’s traditionally ‌known for its theaters, including the famed Palais Garnier. But it’s also home to Pigalle, Paris’ former red light district, which sits right on the border with the nearby 18th arrondissement, where you’ll find the charming Montmartre. (The 9th’s Musée de la Vie Romantique is a hidden, intimate gem of a museum.) Pigalle — especially South Pigalle — and Montmartre both have a more local, authentic feel. (Montmartre also offers some of the city’s best views.) The 11th, too, is hotter than ever. It’s also a foodie’s paradise, with casual, cool restaurants serving elevated, exquisitely prepared dishes.

For additional local flair, the Canal Saint Martin is a must. It’s a bustling area with bars, restaurants, cafés and shops begging to be explored. Check out the neighborhood’s Battling Club, a welcoming boxing gym that also hosts classes exclusively for women.

Bonus: Paris markets

Le Marché aux Puces Saint-Ouen de Clignancourt: Arguably the world’s best (and largest) flea market, consisting of numerous separate markets spread across various streets.

Marché Couvert des Enfants Rouges: Paris’ oldest food market, right in the heart of the Marais.

Marché biologique des Batignolles: An organic farmers’ market open Saturdays from 9 to 3 pm.

Bio c’ Bon, La Récolte & Bien Epicerie Bio: All-organic grocery stores with fresh produce, breads and natural home products.




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